Antonio Madeira 'Vinho Tinto', Dão, Portugal 2019
António Madeira is a Parisian of Portuguese descent whose family roots trace back to Serra da Estrela, mainland Portugal's highest mountain range in the heart of the Dão region. Born in Paris in 1978 after his father fled the Salazar dictatorship in 1970, António studied engineering and worked in France before regularly returning to the Dão for summer holidays. After falling in love with his future wife during one of these visits, he began researching the region in earnest starting in 2010. He discovered a neglected 50-year-old vineyard in the Serra da Estrela foothills and quickly realized he had stumbled upon gold: old vines of rare native varietals, free-draining granite soils, and excellent sun exposures combining to create exceptional terroir. António produced his first wines in 2011, initially splitting time between Paris and Portugal with his father-in-law managing the vineyards between harvests. In 2017, he moved to the Dão permanently with his family. Today, António has assembled an estate of 8 hectares spread across 20 separate plots in 6 different villages within the Serra da Estrela sub-region, containing over 45 different indigenous varieties. His mission extends beyond crafting exceptional wines—he is dedicated to identifying and classifying Dão's "grand cru" vineyards while preserving its most ancient viticultural heritage, essentially rescuing historical vineyards from abandonment.
- WINEMAKER: António Madeira
- FARMING: Biodynamic and organic principles without chemical intervention. Manual farming with focus on biodiversity and minimal intervention. Hand-harvesting exclusively. Works vineyard parcels personally with greatest attention to detail.
- VARIETY: Organic field blend of approximately 20 indigenous grape varieties. 75% comprises Jaen (Mencía), Baga, and Tinta Amarela. The remaining 25% includes over 20 ancient varieties, some forgotten and nearing extinction: Negro Mouro, Marufo, Tinta Pinheira, Tinta Carvalha, Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, and many others.
- TERROIR: Serra da Estrela sub-region of Dão, near the village of Santa Marinha. Selection of old vineyards planted between 1919 and 1969, with vine ages ranging from 50 to over 100 years. Free-draining granite soils at approximately 500 meters elevation with excellent sun exposures. The high-altitude granite terroir combined with temperate climate creates conditions similar to fine Burgundy, producing wines with remarkable freshness, elegance, and mineral character. The Dão region was once a star wine area in 19th century Europe, and António views these parcels as the "Grands Crus of the Dão highlands."
- VINIFICATION: Natural, Burgundian-inspired minimal intervention approach in the cellar. Grapes hand-harvested and hand-selected. Co-fermentation of all varieties together—António believes grapes that grow together should ferment together. Spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts in open-top upright wooden vats with controlled temperature. Gentle extraction working by "infusion" seeking elegance and finesse characteristic of the region, inspired by techniques of Henri Jayer. Cold soak followed by gentle vinification. Maceration period of approximately two weeks with gentle punchdowns. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally in barrel.
- AGING: 18 months in used French oak barrels of various sizes (225L, 400L, 500L, and 600L) to enhance complexity without overshadowing the fruit's intrinsic qualities. Followed by an additional 3-6 months in stainless steel tanks for harmonization. Bottled without fining or filtration with only minimal sulfur added (approximately 39 mg/L total SO2). António selects from individual casks for the final blend.
- TASTING NOTES: Relatively open color with deep ruby hues. The 2019 displays subtle aromas of red fruits with suggestion of stone dust and granite minerality, delicately floral with wild flower notes rather than manicured garden character. Pure nose with complexity showing granite enveloped in stone fruit, peach, cherry, plum, aromatic herbs, flowers, and pine forest impressions. Round, inky dark fruits held together with rich, juicy, spicy complexity. Medium-bodied with fine, soft tannins and chalky texture. Great balance and freshness in a fluid, crystalline, very pure and flavorful palate. The wine shows remarkable purity and authenticity, startlingly pure with clean lines, fresh acidity, and crunchy mineral texture. Very long mineral finish. The 2019 vintage expresses the finesse, freshness, and elegance that defines António's approach, showcasing the authentic terroir character of the Serra da Estrela granite highlands.
- FOOD PAIRINGS: Grilled red meats, roasted lamb, braised short ribs, roasted poultry, smoked and braised meats, cured meats, charcuterie, hearty vegetarian dishes, wild mushroom preparations, traditional Portuguese cuisine. The wine's balanced acidity and refined tannins make it versatile across both traditional Portuguese and international dishes.
- SCORES: Average Critic Score: 91/100 (2019 vintage)
Antonio Madeira 'Vinho Tinto', Dão, Portugal 2019
António Madeira is a Parisian of Portuguese descent whose family roots trace back to Serra da Estrela, mainland Portugal's highest mountain range in the heart of the Dão region. Born in Paris in 1978 after his father fled the Salazar dictatorship in 1970, António studied engineering and worked in France before regularly returning to the Dão for summer holidays. After falling in love with his future wife during one of these visits, he began researching the region in earnest starting in 2010. He discovered a neglected 50-year-old vineyard in the Serra da Estrela foothills and quickly realized he had stumbled upon gold: old vines of rare native varietals, free-draining granite soils, and excellent sun exposures combining to create exceptional terroir. António produced his first wines in 2011, initially splitting time between Paris and Portugal with his father-in-law managing the vineyards between harvests. In 2017, he moved to the Dão permanently with his family. Today, António has assembled an estate of 8 hectares spread across 20 separate plots in 6 different villages within the Serra da Estrela sub-region, containing over 45 different indigenous varieties. His mission extends beyond crafting exceptional wines—he is dedicated to identifying and classifying Dão's "grand cru" vineyards while preserving its most ancient viticultural heritage, essentially rescuing historical vineyards from abandonment.
- WINEMAKER: António Madeira
- FARMING: Biodynamic and organic principles without chemical intervention. Manual farming with focus on biodiversity and minimal intervention. Hand-harvesting exclusively. Works vineyard parcels personally with greatest attention to detail.
- VARIETY: Organic field blend of approximately 20 indigenous grape varieties. 75% comprises Jaen (Mencía), Baga, and Tinta Amarela. The remaining 25% includes over 20 ancient varieties, some forgotten and nearing extinction: Negro Mouro, Marufo, Tinta Pinheira, Tinta Carvalha, Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, and many others.
- TERROIR: Serra da Estrela sub-region of Dão, near the village of Santa Marinha. Selection of old vineyards planted between 1919 and 1969, with vine ages ranging from 50 to over 100 years. Free-draining granite soils at approximately 500 meters elevation with excellent sun exposures. The high-altitude granite terroir combined with temperate climate creates conditions similar to fine Burgundy, producing wines with remarkable freshness, elegance, and mineral character. The Dão region was once a star wine area in 19th century Europe, and António views these parcels as the "Grands Crus of the Dão highlands."
- VINIFICATION: Natural, Burgundian-inspired minimal intervention approach in the cellar. Grapes hand-harvested and hand-selected. Co-fermentation of all varieties together—António believes grapes that grow together should ferment together. Spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts in open-top upright wooden vats with controlled temperature. Gentle extraction working by "infusion" seeking elegance and finesse characteristic of the region, inspired by techniques of Henri Jayer. Cold soak followed by gentle vinification. Maceration period of approximately two weeks with gentle punchdowns. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally in barrel.
- AGING: 18 months in used French oak barrels of various sizes (225L, 400L, 500L, and 600L) to enhance complexity without overshadowing the fruit's intrinsic qualities. Followed by an additional 3-6 months in stainless steel tanks for harmonization. Bottled without fining or filtration with only minimal sulfur added (approximately 39 mg/L total SO2). António selects from individual casks for the final blend.
- TASTING NOTES: Relatively open color with deep ruby hues. The 2019 displays subtle aromas of red fruits with suggestion of stone dust and granite minerality, delicately floral with wild flower notes rather than manicured garden character. Pure nose with complexity showing granite enveloped in stone fruit, peach, cherry, plum, aromatic herbs, flowers, and pine forest impressions. Round, inky dark fruits held together with rich, juicy, spicy complexity. Medium-bodied with fine, soft tannins and chalky texture. Great balance and freshness in a fluid, crystalline, very pure and flavorful palate. The wine shows remarkable purity and authenticity, startlingly pure with clean lines, fresh acidity, and crunchy mineral texture. Very long mineral finish. The 2019 vintage expresses the finesse, freshness, and elegance that defines António's approach, showcasing the authentic terroir character of the Serra da Estrela granite highlands.
- FOOD PAIRINGS: Grilled red meats, roasted lamb, braised short ribs, roasted poultry, smoked and braised meats, cured meats, charcuterie, hearty vegetarian dishes, wild mushroom preparations, traditional Portuguese cuisine. The wine's balanced acidity and refined tannins make it versatile across both traditional Portuguese and international dishes.
- SCORES: Average Critic Score: 91/100 (2019 vintage)